ezard: A Review Of Potential Hazard…
Thursday, 6 May 2010
Another long-arrived post, right on my birthday…
As the birthday girl, I fluttered my eyelashes and smiled my most simpering smirk, as my dearest male parental unit rolled his eyes and made the booking at a spiffy restaurant – ezard, of Little Flinders, tucked in the basement below adelphi Hotel.
I was so excited, that my stomach was shaking the liver and other offal next to it, shrieking “OMG! EZARD! OMG OMG!! OMG OOOOOMG!!!”, making me feel slightly ill. I’d been heralded with all the tales from my two good friends who visited ezard together a few years ago, and came away with the highest compliments. I cannot begin to tell you how envious I was – perhaps a nice emerald shade, or a pistachio green.
I sauntered into the restaurant, nearly rubbing my hands gleefully, ignoring my libido who processed a careful scan of the restaurant for hot waiters. It was my stomach’s night, and my insides shut up a bit as I sipped my first alcohol of the night, a nice champagne from Tasmania.
Conversation flowed smoothly as we tried to decide over the menu – I had cheated a bit earlier, and looked up the menu online before visiting ezard. I changed my mind a few times, then selected Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi with wasabi foam and bonito panacotta.
The first thing I noticed was an accidental smear on the white plate, next to the carefully lined-up sets, and the wasabi foam weren’t quite even. Hmmm. What if I was a food critic, with a foldable ruler and pocket scales? Even so, I ate it, and was surprised by the mix of flavours – creamy, fishy, sweet, with a touch of tang from the wasabi foam. I preferred my father’s order – Japanese-style oyster shooters, and I got two! They were excellent, with bonito and wasabi flavourings with mirin as the base! Mmmmmmmm! Were those available at a party I was attending, I’d disguise myself as a server, whisk the platter away, and find an empty room to enjoy myself…
The main was – well, I did a few more simpering smirks – and got to order a Wagyu 7+ grade steak, with truffled potatoes and… … … foie gras! It arrived in a towering form, and true to the fad that swept the late ‘90s, was quite small for such an expensive dish (as was my father’s and his partner’s). A story was told of how father and his dear partner went to an equally famous restaurant named Jacqui, ordered a fish dish, and they were truly shocked by the miniature scrap of food nestled in a mile-wide white dish.
Size aside, I was looking forward to the melody of flavours that would march on my palate – first, carefully separating the wagyu from the tower, and sampling it.
Hmmm.
Um.
Hm… hmmm? Hmm.
H…hrrrm.
Another bite, and I ‘hrrmed’ some more. My father asked me how it was – and I replied, unsure, wondering if my stomach was distracted by my libido’s pestering of how cute our serving waiter was. I gave my father a taste – and his face immediately scrunched up. Terrible, he spat out.
It was true; I had tasted wagyu previously – lower grade ones even, and they were far more superior than ezard’s version. I might have erred earlier, when the cute waiter asked me how I would like my steak cooked – I should have followed what the equally cute waiter at Taxi Dining Room had said, to always have wagyu well-done. (And by gods, their wagyu was beyond well done, it was amazingly done! It became the benchmark for other wagyu dishes!) This is because wagyu is famous for its marbled pattern of fat that ripples through the meat, therefore to eat it, is to cook it so all the fat melts and infuses the meat with juciness.
I had told them that I would leave the choice to the chef, to allow him/her to cook it as it should be done. Instead, what I received was a little under rare, but rare nevertheless – something that my father picked upon, and said that the previous weekend’s rib-eye rack roast was much better. I agreed heartily – my father had cooked up a farm-brought rib eye rack for two hours smeared in garlic, oil and oregano, and the results was eyeball-gouging good.
I tasted the foie gras, and I was disappointed to learn that it smushed rather pathetically against the heavenly benchmark I had set two years ago: the most amazing foie gras grilled on a stick, drizzled with balsamic vinegar and strawberries, in the heinous Roppongi district of Tokyo, that made half of my brain cells crash and burn with the pleasure overload, and the rest considered geese genocide. Oh well. It is supposed to be a delicate ingredient, and if the past dishes were of any clue, the kitchen staff were running in low spirits.
Most of the dinnertable conversation was about food; past, present, future experiences and expertises. There was the mini-rant about meat being done well, how that one should not just “butcher” good meat – spices is for cheap old cuts, and only the hints of salt and pepper is required for the top cut of the carcass. Benchmarks was the major topic – asian books were qualified as good only if they had a GOOD chilli jam recipe, how a child raised with poor cooking or cheap food develop a fussiness that will not allow them to taste the top notch produce. Like Home Brand fish fingers spoiling a person so much that they will not taste the most amazing deep fried snapper. Ordering the grilled chicken at several restaurants, for the most simple dishes prove the most difficult to perfect.
As I scraped the last of the truffled potato (the highlight of the dish for me), I leant back for the plate to be taken away and to receive the dessert menu. One of the passing waiter, perhaps the head one – dipped into my view and pointed out the Toffee-swirl-honeycomb-ginger icecream dish, murmuring “it’s good!”. Hmmm. Then my attention was drawn to the dessert wines section – I still have that fixation upon dessert wines, much to the dismay of my beer-aficionado friends. Hehehe.
And lo and behold, there was a small glass, exactly 45ml for 50 dollars – a 1909 french vintage! Nearly one dollar per millilitre! I did a quick little deduction: if I had a dessert and one of the cheaper glasses of sweetness, then it would be nearly the same price as the tallinating French 101 liquid. Hmmm. Time for another simpering smile and fluttering of eyelashes… ha!
A moment later, the glass of dusky garnet liquid was in front of me, and a surprise – a whole plate of the aforementioned icecream for me! The icecream did not disappoint, nearly cutting my mouth to ribbons with the toffee in my desperate bid to get it to my stomach, and the French wine was remarkably different. Made by two different grapes, it was thin, from its 100 years, but I could taste the wood that it was casked in – like I was licking the inside of the cask it was stored in. It wasn’t unpleasant, more of like nibbling sugar cane; it is where sugar comes from, but the taste is wholly different. It also tasted as port should be; and I dislike port – most of what I’ve sampled tastes far too much like some wine-flavoured cordial. Yes, I liked that one very much.
All in all, the ezard experience was a bit disappointing – it’s been quite a few years since I was told of its amazing dishes, and between then, I’ve been exposed to some mindblowingly delicious edible parades that climbed up to my kether and my consciousness flashed NEW HIGH SCORE! ENTER YOUR DISH/RESTAURANT NAME: _ _ _
Thank you again to my dear father and his dear partner, for making my night for my 27th birthday!!!
cryptolizard 12:11 am — Food — comments [2]








